Campman Outdoor Gear & Apparel

SCARPA climbing shoes fall into three categories: Specialized Performance, Performance, and All-Day Performance. This article focuses on the Performance line, but be sure to check out our buying guide for their Specialized Performance lineup and All-Day Performance shoes, if you don't find what you’re looking for here.

If you’re sick of hauling three pairs of rock climbing shoes for your days out and want a shoe that can handle just about any style on any rock type, you’ve come to the right place. Home to some of the most versatile and popular models on the planet, SCARPA’s Performance shoes are found at every crag and in every boulder field for a reason.

Performance

A note on sizing: SCARPA climbing shoes tend to fit differently than street shoes. For this reason, SCARPA developed a fit tool that you can print and use to guide your decision making process for shoe sizing.

Just because SCARPA removed “Specialized” from their Performance collection doesn’t mean these shoes aren’t special. On the contrary, a lot of expert climbers never move past SCARPA’s Performance category and they happen to be some of our favorites. Further, while the shoes in the Specialized Performance category are all Unisex, many of the models in the Performance collection have both a men’s and a women’s model.

As a general rule, SCARPA’s women’s models are the same as the corresponding men’s models, with two exceptions. First, women’s models are often made with a more narrow last and a lower volume heel cup. Secondly, for the Instinct, Instinct VS, and Vapor V models, the women’s design uses a different rubber outsole, resulting in a slightly softer shoe.

The Performance collection is SCARPA’s largest collection of climbing shoes, and most of these shoes share the same name because their profiles, constructions, and overall performance stay the same. The main difference between shoes with the same name is the stiffness of the shoe and the closure type (lace, strap, and slip-on).

Stiffness is usually dictated by the midsole, the type of rubber, and the thickness of the rubber used to build the shoe. Stiff shoes tend to perform well when edging on vertical faces and slabs, whereas softer shoes tend to provide more sensitivity and precision for steeper climbs.

Closure types do offer some performance differences as well. Lace-ups generally give a comfier fit and better precision, while the hook-and-loop and slipper options offer the quicker on-and-off that boulderers and some sport climbers crave in between projects.

Instinct Family

First up is SCARPA’s Instinct. This might be the most popular SCARPA climbing shoe. If you’re ever at a crowded crag or climbing gym, the Instinct is sure to make its presence known on the feet of the most stoked climbers out there. The moderate downturn and asymmetry provide the performance that most climbers need. Intermediate and advanced climbers will appreciate the Instinct, which is available in a lace-up, hook-and-loop, and slip-on for both women and men. This family also offers some of the best bouldering should and sport climbing shoes that SCARPA has to offer.

Instinct

Best Use: Sport, Boulder

Expertise: Intermediate, Advanced

Closure: Lace

Support: Very Stiff

Instinct VS

Best Use: Sport, Boulder

Expertise: Intermediate, Advanced

Closure: Strap

Support: Stiff

Instinct VSR

Best Use: Sport, Boulder

Expertise: Intermediate, Advanced

Closure: Strap

Support: Soft

Instinct S

Best Use: Sport, Boulder

Expertise: Intermediate, Advanced

Closure: Slip

Support: Very Soft

Vapor Family

SCARPA’s Vapor seemed to evaporate into the hearts of most all-around climbers out there. It’s probably the most versatile SCARPA climbing shoe, making it especially appealing on multi-pitches full of slabs, cracks, thin faces, and even the occasional overhang. While a jack of all trades, the Vapor isn’t exactly a master of none. It touts a high performance on most climbs while providing the comfort needed for sending it, pitch after pitch. Tell your belayer to cut out all the beta spray, because the Vapor gives all the support you need. Like the Instinct, the Vapor is available in lace, strap, and slipper variations for men and women. The Vapor line generally lends itself to trad climbing and sport climbing shoes, but you might also see the Vapor S while out bouldering as well.

Vapor

Best Use: Sport, Trad, Boulder

Expertise: Intermediate

Closure: Lace

Support: Stiff

Vapor V

Best Use: Sport, Trad, Boulder

Expertise: Intermediate

Closure: Strap

Support: Stiff

Vapor S

Best Use: Sport, Trad, Boulder

Expertise: Intermediate

Closure: Slip with a Strap

Support: Soft

Conclusion

Performance rock climbing shoes best suit all-around climbers who try to find a balance in comfort and performance regardless of whether they’re climbing sport, trad, or bouldering. With a huge range of shoes, multiple closure options, and some of SCARPA’s most well-loved shoes, this lineup has what you need to keep sending.

About the Author

Derek Newman

Born in the Wasatch, Derek has had an affinity for mountain life since day one. He was on skis the year he learned to walk, and as a high school graduation present he gifted himself rock climbing lessons. Nearly two decades later, Derek spends most of his time climbing up and/or skiing down most of the mountains around Salt Lake City, and he's traveled around the world multiple times for the sole purpose of peak exploration. When he isn't a man about camp, he's working in Campman's content marketing crew writing up blogs about backcountry skiing or rock climbing as well as describing products that he's used personally. He's climbed in most climbing shoes, toured on most backcountry skis, and ridden the resort on skis, snowboards, and even some evac sleds.